Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Change Is Good

I have noticed lately that some natural perfumers have discovered natural isolates and aroma molecules synthesized from natural (plant based) materials. I have been using these materials for years, and can remember a time when many natural perfumers would not have thought to use such materials and considered them synthetic. Well....they are synthetic in regards to processing. They are not, in regards to starting materials.
I spent a lot of time discussing this with folks, but didn't get very far. The mindset was so closed to even the possibility of using these materials that I decided to let it go and move on. Amazing what a few years can do. And no one is more pleased to see this than I am.
In my work I will more often than not choose a plant based synthetic over a crude based synthetic. Not to be confused with nature identical, which (for the most part) are crude based doppelgangers of natural isolates.
Whether one calls these materials synthetic or not is just a matter of personal preference, as there are arguments to support both sides.
The truth is, all perfumery materials are synthesized to some degree.
Choosing the natural aroma chemical over the crude is a great way to stay true to ones craft, but it isn't (as some would believe) the most economical one. Natural aroma chemicals are still way more expensive than their crude based counterparts. For example. Natural Heliotropine is 1,450.00 pr kilo, the synthetic is 113.00 pr kilo. Phenylethyl Acetate Natural is 800.00 pr kilo the synthetic is 54.00 pr. kilo. Yes just 54 bucks. Many synthetic chemicals are dirt cheap like this. It is why the perfume industry chooses to use them.
Pricing was obtained from one of my suppliers Vigon International.
For anyone interested in natural aroma chemicals Vigon has a fair amount, Sigma Aldrich has a better selection and for some of the harder to find in natural, AM Todd has a good selection. A M Todd bought out Moore Organics, moorelab.com. so if you try to google them you will get a redirect. They are located just thirty minutes from me so I can pick up supplies from them directly. Hopefully the buy out has not prompted them to close down their facility here.
Unlike a rose oil that will have subtle changes from year to year due to climate and soil conditions, aroma chemicals are standardized to always be the same, so sharing the info. isn't such a big thing.
I am not so quick to share the source of small batch distillations of special oils. (smile)
Change is good in this regard because it not only adds to the possibilities in the formulation of natural perfumes, but also peels away the layers of fear and ignorance when it comes to perfumery materials.
I am all for expanding the mind, and know from years of experience that the best way is with education. It's one thing to be fearful of something with just cause, it is insanity to be fearful of shadows and imaginary threats. Or worse to let ignorant ill-informed people yank us around by the nose.

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